Why You Hate Wearing Sunscreen
I am an esthetician. I’m passionate about skin health and well being. If you’ve ever been to my skin studio or even asked me questions about your skincare routine, you know I’m going to ask you about sunscreen. It may feel akin to the dentist asking you if you’ve been flossing your teeth. Whether you are seeking aesthetic treatments for skin rejuvenation, or even remotely care about your overall health and well being, then it’s imperative you wear sunscreen.
It’s an indisputable fact that UV radiation causes damage to the DNA of our cells. Cumulative unprotected exposure to UV radiation accelerates premature aging, causes photodamage resulting in textural changes and irregular pigmentation, breaks down collagen and connective tissues which give our skin structure, and most importantly, leads to the mutation of cancerous cells.
So why is it such a struggle to be compliant with sunscreen usage?
In this article we will explore one of the main factors that I feel contributes to the “ick” that many of my clients have when it comes to wearing SPF on a daily basis as well as the benefits of using sunscreens from other countries.
The History of Sunscreen
The concept of sun protection dates back to ancient civilizations, where various substances like rice bran and jasmine were used to shield the skin from the sun. However, it wasn't until the early 20th century that the first commercially available sunscreen made its debut.
In the early 20th century, Austrian scientist Franz Greiter laid the foundation for modern sun protection by developing the concept of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF). His creation, Gletscher Crème (Glacier Cream), marked the world's first commercial sunscreen. During World War II, the US military explored sun protection for soldiers in the Pacific.
In 1928, a product called "Red Vet Pet" was introduced by a pharmacist named Benjamin Green. Although this early sunscreen lacked the sophistication of today's formulations, it marked the beginning of an era focused on protecting the skin from the sun's harmful effects.
As scientific understanding of ultraviolet (UV) radiation increased, so did the need for more effective sunscreens. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) started taking an active role in regulating these products, aiming to ensure their safety and efficacy.
In 1978, the FDA published the first set of regulations specifically addressing over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreen products. These regulations outlined testing methods and required labeling to provide consumers with essential information about a product's sun protection capabilities. The focus was primarily on preventing sunburn (UVB protection).
While the initial regulations addressed UVB protection, the importance of protecting against UVA rays became increasingly evident. UVA rays contribute to premature aging and are associated with the development of skin cancers. However, the regulatory framework for UVA protection took longer to develop.
It wasn't until 2011 that the FDA issued new regulations requiring sunscreens to provide broad-spectrum protection, covering both UVA and UVB rays. This marked a significant step forward in enhancing the effectiveness of sunscreens available to consumers.
The Lengthy Regulation Process
Navigating the regulatory landscape to bring a new sunscreen ingredient to market is an extensive and costly process, primarily overseen by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The journey unfolds through several critical steps, each contributing to the overall assessment of the ingredient's safety and efficacy.
First, companies aspiring to introduce a novel sunscreen ingredient must embark on the process by submitting comprehensive data to the FDA. This submission includes intricate details about the ingredient's formulation, the manufacturing process, and the outcomes of extensive testing, including studies conducted on human volunteers.
The FDA then assumes the role of evaluator, conducting a thorough review of the data submitted. This phase, often spanning several years, involves a comprehensive assessment of the safety and effectiveness of the new sunscreen ingredient. During this time, the FDA may seek additional information or clarification from the submitting company to ensure a complete understanding.
Upon completing the review, if the FDA deems that the new sunscreen ingredient meets the rigorous safety and efficacy standards, a final rule is issued. This rule grants permission for the ingredient's inclusion in the Over-The-Counter (OTC) sunscreen monograph. The monograph, in turn, serves as a comprehensive guide that delineates acceptable ingredients, formulations, and labeling requirements for OTC sunscreen products.
With inclusion in the monograph, the new sunscreen ingredient attains eligibility for integration into sunscreen formulations. This pivotal moment allows companies to commence the commercialization of products featuring the approved ingredient. This, in turn, provides consumers with a broader array of options for effective sun protection.
Regulation Stifles Innovation
The FDA's meticulous approval process for new sunscreen ingredients has often been criticized for its stringency and time-consuming nature. This lengthy and expensive process is the reason the FDA has not approved any new UV protecting ingredients since 1999. Unlike some other countries, the United States has historically maintained a cautious approach, leading to a limited selection of FDA-approved sunscreen filters.
Moreover, the Over-the-Counter (OTC) monograph system, while ensuring safety standards, has contributed to a slower integration of innovative ingredients. Updating the monograph to accommodate new technologies and formulations has proven to be a protracted process.
The sunscreen filters we currently have in the United States are effective, but the lack of novel ingredients hinders the industry's ability to keep up with evolving skincare needs. As a result, consumers are left with a somewhat stagnant array of options that may not fully address their preferences or concerns.
Sunscreen Outside of the USA
While the United States must stick to its FDA-approved list of UV filters, other countries embrace a broader array of filters, such as Tinosorb, Mexoryl, and Uvinul, leading to formulations that go beyond the conventional.
Innovation is the factor that sets sunscreens apart globally. Some countries are quicker to welcome new and groundbreaking sunscreen ingredients, keeping their formulations on the cutting edge. This openness to new ideas ensures that sunscreens not only protect but also offer a touch of skincare innovation.
However, when it comes to SPF ratings and testing, not all standards are created equal. The criteria for determining Sun Protection Factor (SPF) can vary from one country to another, influencing how sunscreens are tested and labeled. The definition and testing requirements for broad-spectrum protection, covering both UVA and UVB rays, also differ, impacting the overall quality of the products. This is why ensuring that even your out of country sunscreens receive a third party test for efficacy to ensure you are getting proper coverage.
The sensory experience of using sunscreen is another dimension where global variations shine. The texture and feel of sunscreens can vary widely, with some formulations being lightweight, non-greasy, and cosmetically elegant – a far cry from the heavy, chalky sunscreens of our childhood.
Walk into a beauty store in some countries, and you might be overwhelmed (in the best way possible) by the variety of sunscreen products. Different formats, formulations for specific skin types, and products tailored to various outdoor activities – it's a sunscreen buffet that goes beyond the standard offerings.
Why You Hate Wearing Sunscreen
Okay… so you may be wondering what does this all have to do with why you hate to put on sunscreen?
I believe you may hate wearing sunscreen because all you have known sunscreen to be is uncomfortable.
If you grew up in the United States, your first memories of sunscreen were likely tied to being slathered in it as a child on the beach or at an amusement park. You may remember loathing this - the powerful chemical smell and the greasy feel. It’s no wonder why as adults, you may resist the idea of daily sunscreen application.
You may hate the idea of wearing sunscreen because you’ve never tried a sunscreen that felt GOOD to apply. Little did you know, there’s a whole world out there full of sunscreens that feel weightless, easy, elegant, and pleasurable to apply.
This is why at my skincare studio, I carry so many different sunscreens from countries like Europe, Japan, and Korea; so that we can change your perception of how sunscreens should feel.
I promise that once you try a sunscreen with new generation filters from outside of the United States, you’ll actually want to wear sunscreen. It’s this step that will initiate your path to true skin health and well being.
